Click here to read review dated January 11th 2008
Click here to read review dated February 23rd 2007

The following review was published in the Portsmouth News on 23 February 2007

Simon Leonard is a chef after my own heart. Since taking over the kitchens of the Seahorse pub in Gosport, his goal was to round up good locally-produced food for his restaurant.

In January, he started an after-school cooking club at one of the local schools. He's a member of Hampshire Fare, was nominated for the UKTV Local Food Hero programme and for a News We Can Do It Award. But does this chef walk the walk as well as talking all the right talk in his restaurant?

Although strictly it's known as a pub, I would classify his dining room as a restaurant thanks to two distinct, separated parts of the business. The look is one of modern, understated design.

The specials menu is rather out of sync with many pubs – and restaurants – in this area. Simon goes for the high ground with oysters, oxtail (oxtail!), monkfish, cod, lamb loin and other dishes which make my heart sing. Home-made faggots are a draw, too. Lobster can be ordered, or you can just have a baguette.

The menu demonstrates this chef's love of local produce. There's the Hampshire ham, Hampshire smoked trout and smoked organic bacon, Isle of Wight garlic, chutneys and ice creams and dishes from the area such as classic Gosport ale and steak pie and Hampshire fudge sponge pudding. Or maybe a venison old-style pate with toasted walnut bread and cranberry jelly or roasted vegetable soup with roasted garlic butter might tempt. Calves' liver with organic bacon, sweet onion jus; slow roasted pork belly with fig and Isle of Wight chutney and locally made pork and sun-dried tomato sausages with a potato puree are possible mains dishes.

Prices are pleasingly around a fiver for a starter with most mains under a tenner. Of course I had to try out the braised oxtail. When a chef goes the lengths to create this labour of love – a good 24-hour operation from sawing the bones to laying them cooked on the plate – I have to sample his creation. Are there other words for 'sublime, tender, moreish'? Chef Leonard knows his onions in all ways, the glorious meat on the three bones just falling on to my fork. This plateful also contained perfect Dauphinoise with garlicky undertones, unpeeled and so more tasty whole carrots, broccoli and a splendid root veg mash. Winter food at its best. The lemon creme brulee with a cracking sugar top demonstrated again this chef's prowess.

Join me in celebrating chefs who put their (over) time, effort, love of produce and expertise into putting a plate of wonderful, yet simple food in front of us. Service is quiet, efficient and spot-on. My bill came to £16.30, including a remarkably ungreedy £2.60 for an expertly chosen Shiraz but not a well-deserved tip.

The Seahorse pub, Broadsands Drive, Gosport. (023) 9251 2910. Open Midday-3 pm, Tue-Sat; 6-9pm, Tue-Thur. 6-10pm Fri-Sat. Midday-4pm Sun. Closed Mon.

Food: *****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: *****
Smoking: No.
Disabled access: Yes


How to get there: Or, how I got there. You may have a different route into this maze of roads. Take the M27 going west, exit at Fareham, follow Gosport signs, take Newgate Lane, Broom Way, Manor Way, Marine Parade which turns into Portsmouth Road and Privett Road then right on to Browndown Road. Turn left into Gomer Lane then left again into Broadsands Drive. The pub is on your left. Large car park. Bus stop right opposite for buses 88, 34 and 72.


The above review may be read at the Portsmouth News website at: http://www.portsmouth.co.uk/guide-eating-out?articleid=2072873